Suiting Glossary
Welcome to our suiting glossary.
This glossary was prepare to enhance the communication and education between our retail partners and our customers.
If there is a term you would like added or have any comments, please let us know here.
Navigate by category:
I. Suit
III. Pockets
V. Pants
I. SUIT
SINGLE BREASTED
DOUBLE BREASTED
Jacket that has a wider overlap of the front panels, with two parallel columns of buttons. One column of buttons is decorative, and the other is functional. The most popular type of double breasted jacket is 6 buttons divided onto three rows.
VENT
The slit in the bottom rear of the jacket. We offer three vent options: no vent, single vent or side vents.
SEPARATES
Jackets and trousers that are sold separately.
NESTED SUIT
As opposed to separates, a nested suit is jacket and trousers sold together. (Typically a 6-inch drop)
II. FABRIC & CONSTRUCTION
CANVAS
The inner layer of the suit that gives the garment its shape, structure and strength. Canvas is traditionally made from horsehair, woven together with wool or cotton. The picture above demonstrates the application of canvas in our garments.
MAKE
Refers to the type of canvas construction inside the jacket. We offer half canvas garments in all of our suits. It is important that the canvas construction also extends to the jacket lapels. This is vital for giving them the correct shape and support, as well as enabling a smooth lapel roll.
LINING
The lining is the extra inner layer of fabric inserted inside a suit. It is often made of polyester, but can also be made out of cotton derivatives (such as Cupro) or rayon.
We also offer full, partial (half-back and sides of jacket) or unconstructed (no lining). It is important to note that even in unlined unconstructed jackets, we will add striped lining in the sleeves. This specialized lining is present so that it allowing the arms easy movement in and out of the sleeves.
HALF LINED
A half lined jacket is a jacket where the top half and the sleeves of the jacket are lined with lining, whereas the bottom is unlined. Half lined garments are often lighter and perfect for warmer weather.
UNCONSTRUCTED
A jacket without canvas or lining. Ideal for a summer jacket. The picture above is an example of one of our unconstructed jackets (The Lugano).
FUSED
A fused jacket is a jacket that contains no canvas inside and is fused together with glue or heat treatments.
DRAPE
The way that the fabric falls off the body. Often, stiff fabrics have less drape and lighter fabrics have more. However, the way a fabric drapes over the body is not only directly related to the weight of the fabric, but the way the garment has been tailored.
FIBER
The basic element from which the yarns are made. The picture above is a fine wool fiber.
YARN
It is a long continuous strand of fibers spun together from which the fabric is made.
HAND
The hand of the fabric denotes of its overall qualities. It mostly represents softness, silkiness and the general touch of the fabric in your hand.
WARP AND WEFT
The warp is the vertical threads of the fabric. The weft is the horizontal threads.
TRIMS
Trims are materials used to ornament or give garments functionality. These include buttons, zippers, tape, piping or even sewing thread.
CMT (Cut, Make and Trim)
CMT refers to S. Cohen manufacturing the suit and the customer supplying the fabric and occasionally the trims.
III. POCKETS
FLAP POCKET
Traditional jacket pocket with a flap of fabric hanging over the opening.
TICKET POCKET
Small flapped pocket placed above the right main hip pocket on a jacket. Usually half as wide as the pocket below it. This provides a traditional British aesthetic.
BESOMS
A slit-like pocket without a fabric flap. Made out of satin on tuxedos for a formal look.
PATCH POCKET
A flat pocket that is stitched outside the jacket. This provides a more casual look.
IV. MADE-TO-MEASURE OPTIONS
CUFF (PANT)
The turned up part of fabric at the bottom of tailored trousers. This term is often also used to describe the end of a sleeve, on a jacket or a shirt. The picture above is our 2-inch pant cuff.
PICK STITCHING
A 1⁄16" stitch that simulates a hand stitch on the very edge of the suit. This type of stitching is common in Italian styling.
SADDLE STITCH
SURGEON CUFFS
Functional sleeve cuffs. The name comes from surgeons needing to roll their sleeves as needed. It is a distinctive feature of a quality custom garment.
LAPEL
The turned back front section of the jacket, that makes a ‘V’ where the jacket closes at it's top button. There are two primary types of lapel: notch lapel and peak lapel.
NOTCH LAPEL
Collar with an inward triangular notch, where the lapel meets the collar.
PEAK LAPEL
Collar that points outwards from the collar to the shoulder.
GORGE
Where the jacket's collar and lapel meet, inside of the notch. The gorge is frequently used in regards to it's height, relative to the collarbone. This height may vary depending on the jacket's style. The dotted line in the picture above represents the gorge height. When the gorge is higher, the widest part of the lapel will be higher too. This would make your chest appear wider, and would also make it look slightly taller as the focus is now pulled upwards.
SHAWL COLLAR
A one-piece collar which forms a continuous line from the back of the neck to the front of the garment. Often used for tuxedos when made out of satin.
UNDERCOLLAR
The piece of felt under the jacket collar is aptly named the under collar. Felt is used in the under collar because of its ability to spring back into shape, but also because it moulds easily and smoothly around the neck.
BACK TO BACK (REGULAR) BUTTONS
Back to back buttons do not overlap or touch on the cuffs of a jacket.
STACKED BUTTONS
Buttons that overlap each other on the cuffs of a jacket.
KISSING BUTTONS
Buttons that slightly touch each other on the cuffs of a jacket.
V. PANTS
6 or 7 INCH DROP
Represents the difference in size between the jacket and the pants.
An example of a 6 inch drop would be a size 40 jacket paired with a size 34 pant.
FLAT FRONT
Pants that do not have pleats on the front of the trousers. Great for a slimmer man, as they will elongate the silhouette, making it smoother and straight.
PLEATS
It is a fold of fabric that is made by doubling the material on itself. It provides volume and mobility, and typically have a higher rise.
RISE
Rise is the distance from the crotch seam (in between the legs) to the top of the waistband on pants. The rise is important because it determines where the pants sit on your body, which creates the perceived waistline.
BREAK
Fold or creasing of the fabric above the bottom of the pant leg, where it meets the shoe. Can go from no break to full break. Usually, a full break is considered to be more formal and conservative. No break is a more modern silhouette.